Posts Tagged ‘travel’

Buying a Couch and Meeting the Dude

March 28th, 2010

Or how furniture shopping is like traveling.

My husband and I are renovating our whole new house and buying furniture on a shoestring dental-floss budget. I’m going for mid-century elegant with a touch of global zen.

So far we have a couch.

couch-photo by the Dude

couch-photo by the Dude

Not just any couch, but a Kroehler “Avant” series mid-century piece with beautiful lines, original blue fabric, bought for the price of a Tar-jay bookshelf.

The moment I saw the couch’s picture on craigslist I was smitten. One e-mail and two phone calls later, my husband and I were walking up the abstract gravel, sand path to a flat-roofed modern house near Hugh McRae park. The doorbell broken, I knocked timidly on the door.

And then it happened. The “Dude” appeared. THE dude, from the Big Lebowski.

At least his younger version. This guy wasn’t so much a doppelgänger, but a kindred spirit. I could almost hear Bob Dylan singing “The Man in Me”.

Hair mussed, dressed in a white wife beater and jeans, the Dude greeted us with “He-heey. Come on in…” before taking a sip of his White Russian. I shit you not.

And just like the Dude, this guy was down on his luck, selling off furniture, and hanging out in his house between catching waves. (Wilmington sub-in for the bowling alley?)

(photo from Polygram Filmed Entertainment movie poster)

(photo from Polygram Filmed Entertainment movie poster)

The house was an homage to mid-century modern. I spotted Saarinen chairs in the foyer, a Herman Miller knock-off recliner, and other pieces I wouldn’t deem to know anything about.

He led us to the couch, explaining his girlfriend was making him sell it for cash since he had collected too much furniture already. Someone else had inquired about it via craigslist, but he didn’t deem them good enough owners.

He seemed to love my mid-century enthusiasm and my husband’s own interpretation of devil-may-care attitude (i.e. bed hair, grizzly beard, CNN t-shirt, and basketball shorts).

It was a karmic match. We were deemed cool enough to take the couch and we were stoked to get it. He did us a solid and knocked twenty bucks off without us even asking. We even refused another ten off since the Dude seemed so sad to part with his couch.

As we left in our Home Depot rented-by-the-hour truck, the Dude asked if we would mind sending pictures of the house in its new home in Virginia. We promised. When we got home I found he had sent me an e-mail with the research he had done on the couch and his seal of approval of us as a ‘cool couple, man’.

Somewhere out there the Dude is out a couch but at least it was on the Dude’s terms and not peed on it. Maybe he can swindle one out of the real Lebowski.

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House vs. Globe: The Vagabond/Homeowner Crisis

February 1st, 2010

Home sweet home. Not. Photo gilched from That Canadian Grrl

Home sweet home. Not. Photo gilched from That Canadian Grrl

Mr. Gnome and I just purchased our first home.

It’s beautiful, just what we wanted: a great deal on a well-built house in a nice neighborhood. (Bonus: A gorgeous view of the Blue Ridge mountains.)

Somehow, though, as I sat in the title company’s conference room closing on the house, dog leash in one hand, pen-on-deed in another, I felt like I was cheating on my wanderlust.

Despite the fact that we’ll save money month-to-month (even excluding the 8k, first-time homebuyer kickback and projected return on investment), it made my inner backpacker widen her eyes in alarm and lament scream, “Now you’ll never travel again!”

Of course, this is ridiculous.

Even worse than ridiculous, it’s just my fear-hungry inner lizard that worries about basic needs and comforts.

But still, why does being a travel junkie and a home-owner have to feel mutually exclusive? It’s similar to the conversation about what it means to be a traveler.  Some people quit their jobs to travel, some work/study abroad, some work at home and travel when they can.

In my opinion, it’s all good.

I sometimes have the image in my head of being some wanderer-hippie chick super long hair, a penchant for cheap hostels, and a desire to live as meagerly as possible with all of my possessions squished in a backpack.

But, I know my most authentic self is a little different.

I’m the gal who loves lazily wandering around the world, sharing beers with new friends and old, catching good tunes, playing piano for hours at a time, writing about the world and change, volunteering…and is secretly thrilled to pick out paint colors and hunt for cheap mid-century furniture.

Shhhh.

I have no intention to stop traveling. In fact, I know I won’t stop traveling.

As cliche as it may be, I’ve just learned over the years it’s about what makes you happy. Or “whatever works” as Larry David’s misanthropic character grunts in Woody Allen’s latest film.

I may not be the *cool* traveler, but here I am: a travel-obsessed chick composing songs for the pitbull sitting next to her Eames-era coffee table.

What do you think?

Have any of you felt the adventurer/abode dilemma?

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10 Ways To Have A Perfect Christmas in Montreal

October 6th, 2009

Go ahead and call us crazy. Last December, my other half and I decided to leave our short sleeves and balmy weather behind to take a last-minute trip into the ice and snow. We found a great deal to Montreal, Canada and splurged on the hotel Auberge Du Vieux Port , located on Rue de la Commune in Old Montreal.Hot Choco

The city didn’t disappoint my visions of Christmas bliss. So, here’s my guide to having a perfect Christmas in Montreal, Canada:

1. Eschew your fear of clichés. Go ahead and listen for jingling bells, drink lots of hot chocolate and maple syrup and admire the holly-covered doorways and twinkling lights of Christmas trees. Sing a Christmas carol or two while you’re at it.

2. Take a horse-drawn calèche (carriage) around Old Montreal. This may also be a cliché, but frankly, my dear, I don’t give a damn. It’s fun, romantic, informative, and made me feel like Anna Karenina. (Or at least like SJP riding off into the distance with Alexandre Petrovsky in Sex and the City .)Caleche

3. Make Old Montreal your home base. I know there are hip neighborhoods all over Montreal, but for the ultimate “quaint” experience, stay in Old Montreal. I highly recommend the hotel, Auberge Du Vieux Port , for my three “v’s”: value, vibe, and view. Old Montreal is the North American Paris. Speaking of which, check out the Basilique Notre-Dame , which has the cache of being Celine Dion’s wedding ceremony location. Refrain from the urge to sing “My Heart Will Go On ”.)

4. Be prepared for snow. Maybe it’s just because I’m a dumbass like this, but I took little ballet flats to walk the snow-covered cobblestone streets of Montreal. (Maybe I can just attribute it to never having below freezing weather where I live.) After falling on my ass (this is a theme ) a couple of times, I finally broke down and invested in some great boots to use on later trips.Shoes, shoes, shoes

5. Train in the stomach Olympics before you leave. Montreal has some good great food. Be prepared to eat, and eat…and eat. Mr. Gnome and I were actually over our little foodie heads at the restaurant, Chez L’Epicier . (Amouse-bouche of pureed asparagus and truffles anyone?)

6. Try the poutine. Yes, I’ve turned vegan nowadays, but the memory remains fresh in my mind. Fries drenched in gravy and cheese curds sounds slightly disgusting, but it’s one of those tastes-better-than-it-sounds concoctions. Oh and eating poutine without beer is a sin. Which brings me to…poutine

7. Sample the Quebec beers. They make some pretty dank beers up in there in Quebec. My favorite one that I sampled was the Griffon Extra Pale Ale.

8. Be touristy and buy the maple syrup. The maple syrup really is fabulous and is one easy, cheap way to shop for all the wonderful family and friends you left back home.

9. See lots and lots of Christmas trees. Even though it’s a bit of a hassle to get to, the Jardin Botanique de Montréal (Botanical Gardens) houses loads of decorated Christmas trees and kitchy Christmas decorations like cacti singing Christmas carols. It’s also one of the largest botanical gardens in the world.Cacti

10. Go slow. My favorite part about being in Montreal around Christmas? Simply strolling the streets, arm in arm with the hubs, slowly taking in the sights and popping in and out of anyplace we felt like. Well, that and drinking spiked hot chocolate in bed.

text/photos: Nancy Harder

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Top 10 Insider Tips About Amsterdam

September 30th, 2009

Amsterdam is one of my favorite cities in the world. I lived there for six months and have taken about three trips back there since I came back to the States. A’dam (as it’s called by locals) is beautiful, hip, and fun. Here are my top 10 insider tips I gathered during my time there:

1. Choose thy coffeeshop carefully.

Stay out of most of the touristy shops near the Damrak or any Rastafi-themed shops. They will be full of tourists with less selection and lower quality.

Local Amsterdamers love the coffeeshop, Amnesia, in the Jordaan district. Nice selection of edibles, especially the home-baked brownies, with a laid-back vibe.Amnesia

2. Know your stripper card, er…strippenkart

Unrelated to the Red Light District, the strippenkart is your ticket to ride on all the transportation around Amsterdam: buses, trams, and subway. Do as the Dutch do and buy a long strippenkart to use during your time in Amsterdam. It’s a better value than the single use card.

3. Let them butter your bread.

No really. When out to eat with those tall Netherlanders, the prevailing custom is for the host or man of the table to butter everyone’s slice of bread and hand it to them. Then another person does it for everyone’s second slice, then another person does it for everyone’s third slice, etc… The bread is up for grabs after everyone has had a turn buttering the bread. Dinner in Amsterdam

4. Know and love the Albert Heijn.

For make-shift picnics and general food/drugstore needs, head to an Albert Heijn . This is the pre-eminent grocery store in NL. Take your own grocery bag, as they don’t usually provide them.

5. Fiets! (Bikes!)

Biking around the Netherlands is highly recommended. Be aware, though, of these two precautions:  (1): Lock up your bike very well. There’s a thriving black market for stolen bicycles. Consider yourself warned. (2): Pay close attention to NO BIKE ZONES. The signs will look like a biker with a slash through it. Don’t think the Dutch police officers on bikes won’t cite you. (Been there, done that.)

 6. Get comfortable with sex.

The Dutch love talking about sex and have no problem showcasing it in the red light district, condom vending machines, or sex shops. Enjoy the anti-puritanical ways.

 7. Lekker Gezellig

Lekker gezellig describes the ideal in life for A’damers. It loosely means tasty (lekker) warm fuzzies (gezellig). Social gatherings are considered successful if there is plenty “lekker” food and a certain “gezellig” quality with good laughs, warm friendly atmosphere, etc. Amsterdam

 8. Koninginnedag is the best block party in the world.

On Koninginnedag  (April 30), the whole country shuts down to celebrate Queen Beatrix’s birthday. Work is closed and A’dam turns into the biggest, baddest block party ever. Everyone dresses in orange (the national color), sells their no-longer-wanted-stuff on the sidewalk (think redneck yardsale, but with Euro crap), drinks beer on the streets, plays loud music, participates in general mayhem, and eats a lot. It’s pretty much the most awesome day to be in NL period.

 9. The three kiss masters.

Avoid an ever so awkward dance and expect to kiss three times on the cheek, starting on your right, when encountering friends, family, or friends of friends. The first couple times I had to be physically pulled into the kiss ritual by the kisser, making for a very bizarre intro.

Canal

 10. Enjoy all that Amsterdam has to offer

 Amsterdam is more beautiful than one might think. The canals and architecture are, dare I say, “picturesque”. The museums are formidable, the people refreshingly blunt, and the cuisine top-notch. Venture outside of A’dam to more pastoral small towns, such as Haarlem, Delft, or Edam. Ice-skate in the winter or sit on a boat drinking a glass of beer on a canal in the summer. It’s all quite “lekker gezellig”.

 

text/photos: Nancy Harder

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How To Travel If You Can’t Afford To, Pt. 2

September 23rd, 2009

photo_6265_20090506

As a follow-up to my previous post, here are some of my other favorite tips and ideas for inexpensive ways to travel this big, crazy, beautiful connected world we all share:

1. Volunteer!

Explore the volunteer options in places you’d like to visit. Try sites like www.helpx.net , http://www.rudec.org , or even long term commitments like the Peace Corps  or placements found on www.idealist.org 

2. Camp.

If you’re in a country good for road trips (the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, etc.) and have some wheels, consider packing up a tent, sleeping bag, and other accoutrements and hitting that proverbial open road. Waking up in the open air is everything it’s cracked up to be.

3. Carpool.

Again, if you’re able to do a road trip, consider carpooling with friends. Not only will this save in gas, but you can also chip in on a campsite or vacation rental. Traveling with friends can make for some memorable stories. (Remind me to tell you about my good friend, Noreen, driving a mini-van down a one-way tram line street in Austria.) Here’s my favorite vacation rental site: Vacation Rentals by Owner .

4. Keep your ear to the tarmac.

Use a flight aggregator like Kayak , which searches all travel websites, to find the best fare. Want to try and forecast whether the rate you found will drop or increase? Try http://www.bing.com/travel/, also a flight aggregator, which utilizes “Farecast Technology” to predict price fluctuations with about 75% accuracy.

5. Make priorities.

Money is always a choice. Even paying taxes is a choice, albeit one most of us choose to grudgingly do. But, we make this choice because we choose not to have the negative repercussion of paying hefty fines and serving prison time. That is to say, if you set the intention to travel and turn your attention to that intention, the choices you make with your money will become clearer. Now I can’t help but think in terms of “travel dollars”. (As in, well I could buy this or contribute this money to traveling to ::insert cool place::)

6. Get crazy.

There are some inspirational people out there traveling in awe-inspiring ways. For instance, check out some of my dear friends at Bike the US for MS , who have biked across the US for two summers, raising money for Multiple Sclerosis. The good vibes these ladies and gents have put out in the world have definitely reverberated.

Bottom line: Life your life as a work of art. Travel as an artform, with passion, curiosity, and an gratefulness.

What are some of your favorite ways to travel if you can’t afford to?

 

text: Nancy Harder/photo: Dino De Luca

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How To Travel If You Can’t Afford To, Pt. 1

September 22nd, 2009

Balloons

“I would love to travel; I just can’t afford to….”

How many times have you heard or said that?

I actually heard them spoken last night, which was inevitably followed by the woman asking me how I was able to travel so much.

The answer is simple: creativity.

I truly believe that travel is an artform. Approaching it with curiosity, passion, an open-mind, and intention to growing and serving will yield the most rewarding experiences.

Connecting with people from around the globe and seeing the world’s insanely beautiful scenery and sights have caused an abundance of gratitude in my life for teaching me so much about this existence.

And, as are all great things in life, connection and appreciation are free!

Globalization has fostered an ideal way to travel right now with social networks and websites dedicating to linking us vagabonds and world-curious souls.

And little by little, connection by connection, the world is being made a better place by reaching out a hand to fellow travelers and stopping to recognize the value of life and nature.

So, here are some of my favorite ways to travel, even if you think you can’t afford to:

Free(!) Lodgings:

1. Couchsurfing:

Couchsurfing is one of the best inventions in travel since the airplane. It allows people to create profiles for free, build a social network, and host or “surf” on couches around the world. Mr. Gnome and I have enjoyed hosting some really great people and staying with some hip cats abroad, too. To date there are 1,413,521 Couch Surfers on the site. It’s definitely more than free lodging. According to the CS motto, you’re participating “in creating a better world, one couch at a time.”

2. Servas International:

Servas is the first hospitality exchange ever created. Started in 1948, it has aimed to “foster peace, goodwill and mutual respect” and is, in fact, accredited by the United Nations. Servas also seems to cater to a wider age range than couchsurfing.

3. WWOOF: World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms is a cool way to participate in cultural exchange and get to play in dirt. In exchange for free lodging, and sometimes food, volunteers get to help out on organic farms all over the world and learn about sustainable practices.

4. Home exchange:

Yes, this is the site featured in that romantic comedy, The Holiday . With over 29,000 listings of all different levels of lodging, this is a great site to consider if you want the comforts of home in a completely new locale. Mr. Gnome and I have gotten some pretty sweet offers from around the globe, even for our modest pad.

In my next post I’ll offer some more creative ideas for maximizing cost-effectiveness and spiritual gratification when traveling.

text: Nancy Harder/photo: dan

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How I Lived Abroad for Free

September 17th, 2009

photo_1323_20081024

At the age of 17, I left the US to go live in Switzerland to study and travel all by my lonesome. It was a fabulous semester of expanding as a person and wearing out my Eurail pass. 

The one problem?

I didn’t want it to end.

But, I couldn’t afford to stay abroad.

So, I researched my options and signed up at an au pair agency . After fielding offers from different families around the globe, I accepted an offer to be an au pair for a Dutch family in a suburb/village outside of Amsterdam, the Netherlands, in 2003.

(An au pair is basically a cultural-exchange nanny.)

I spent 6 months in full cultural immersion, living with this Dutch family of two kids, Katinka (8) and Pepijn (4). I worked 4 days a week, received full room and board + round-trip airline ticket from the US, and got a stipend of €300 a month (back in 2003).

My primary duties were:

-Transportation: I took the kids to and from school (including lunch time, when schools in Holland shut down) on those ubiquitous bikes. Even the four year old was already a master bike rider. pp8b_amsterdam_bicycle_dres

-Cooking/Cleaning: I did light “straightening up” every day around the house, although the family had a cleaning service that came in once a week. I also cooked two meals a week. (I eventually developed a cooking rhythm, but I made some really bad meals for a while, until I figured out what some of the words in the grocery store  meant.)

The Pros to Being an Au Pair:

-I could afford to live in another country!

-Due to the 4 day a week schedule and all evenings off, it allowed me a lot of flexibility for exploring Amsterdam and getting to travel around. I took a number of trips outside of Holland.

-I developed a strong circle of Dutch friends in Amsterdam and a week-day circle of international au-pair friends in the village I worked.

-There’s no better way, in my opinion, to immerse yourself in a culture than to live with people from that culture. In that way, there will always be these little things I know about the Dutch, little sayings, quirky foods, etc.

-I developed my opinions and world-outlook over political discussions with the Dutch family and my different-nationality-friends. (Timeline: I was an au pair when Bush announced war on Iraq. That was fun to try to explain to everyone.)

Now, the cons:

-The family you work for probably has just as much sh*t going on as the one you grew up in. The family I worked for had their own arguments and power struggles going on. As an au pair you get a front-row seat, but at least you’re not emotionally involved.

-As an au-pair you’re never going to be “part” of the family. Yes-that is what the definition of an au pair usually states; however, this very rarely happens. But that was ok with me. I already had a family; I needed a job. (Although, I did grow to love those little rugrats and I think about them to this day.) :)

-Resonsibility is not necessarily a con, but if you’re looking for something completely care-free, being an au pair is not the right fit, as you are indeed caring for someone else’s precious children. Early morning wake-up calls, getting them to and from school on time, and watching out for their general safety is protocol.

-The language barrier was a bit of a struggle dealing with the kids, as I spoke no Dutch prior to living with the family. The 8 yr old knew the basics of English, but the four yr old and I developed a form of pidgeon Dutch/English. Even though we managed to get by on the basics of Dutch and English I always wished I could have had more in-depth discussions with them.

But overall:

If you love kids and want to travel the world, I can definitely recommend the experience. In a subsequent post, I will pose my tips for finding the best family for you in your au pair search.

text: Nancy Harder/photo: Dino de Luca & Brian Wilson

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Thanks to a Bad Movie Remake, I Fell in Love with Nina Simone

September 15th, 2009

photo_457_20080903

Our pitbull is snoring. It’s a lazy Sunday morning and our couch potato dog, Zoey, sounds like a jackhammer at the foot of the bed.

“Oh well,” I think. “I guess it’s a good time to get up anyways.” (Often times, getting a rescue dog even makes little annoyances, like being woken up, adorable.)

After kissing Mr. Gnome and Zoey on their respective heads, I pad downstairs. Clumsily preparing my cereal and soy milk, I clink bowls and close and open cabinet and refrigerator doors.  Sinking down into the engulfing sofa, I open my latest book and settle in.

After an hour passes, the heavy-eyed pair I left snoozing groggily stumble down the stairs to cosy in beside me on the couch. Zoey yawns. Mr. Gnome yawns.  As per our custom, one of us (today, me) gets up to pick out some vinyl to play on our record player. Smelling all the dusty jackets and holding the weight of the LPs themselves just makes the music seem even more palpable.

Today, I pull Nina Simone’s Emergency Ward LP  from its sleeve and settle back, eyes closed, to let her preach the gospel according to Nina.

The first time I heard Nina Simone I felt like my jumbled thoughts and emotions were all of a sudden articulated, laid out for the world by a mysterious androgynous voice. She was magnificent, her music incredibly unique, nuanced and raw, beyond genre or analysis.

We had an auspicious beginning, Nina and me. I sat in a London hotel room, feeling lazy after seeing, the previous evening, Paul McCartney rock the house on his Back to the World tour. The pillows were so soft, my feet were sore from standing for hours at the concert, and the tv remote called my name.

I flipped through the unfamiliar channels (British tv never ceases to confuse me) and paused on the movie, Point of No Return, a really bad remake of La Femme Nikita. The karmic moment: the main character, played by Bridget Fonda, is obsessed with Nina Simone. She continually listens to her music on headphones and asks for her albums while imprisoned.

The use of Nina’s music in the film kept me glued in till the end of the movie. And upon my return to Amsterdam, where I was living at the time, I promptly purchased her anthology, listening to it for days on end through little foam-covered headphones.

And now, thanks to her increasing popularity and our household’s record player, my obsession is expanding in the form of new LPs and CDs. As “Emergency Ward” finishes up we talk about our plans for the rest of the day. Coffee? Lunch? Walk in the park with Zoey?

The words of Nina’s rendition of “Isn’t it a Pity” ring in the air, a sermon-of-sorts on this Sunday afternoon, inspiring us on the week ahead:

“We just forget to give back, because we’re moving too fast…Until we concentrate on giving…Mankind don’t stand a chance.”

text: Nancy Harder/photo: anonymous

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How to be a Travel Writer in 10 Easy Steps

September 12th, 2009

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What does it mean to be a travel writer?

Well, that depends. Years ago, the field of travel writing might have been seen as an elusive club. I imagine a glorious few, decked in khaki head-to-toe, scribbling notes in a moleskine notebook.  (Call me a romantic, but I think moleskines are still fantastic.)

The world has changed. Globalization and social media have created a new ballgame. Writers are publishing themselves (blogs, online magazines, e-zines) and successfully freelancing. Offline media is still around, yet the successful travel writers of today know that staying connected and being creative are the new rules in travel-writing-town.

So, if you’ve ever thought to yourself, “Wow-that would be amazing to be a travel writer,” here are the ten steps to help make that dream possible:

1. Set an intention. As “la-dee-dah” as this seems, intention creates reality in a powerful way.  Set your intention when you wake up in the morning or before you place your coffee cup next to your laptop.  Trust me on this. As an example, your intention could be “I intend joy in my writing today”. See, wasn’t that easy?

2. Read. Read great travel books, novels in all genres, guidebooks, and travel blogs such as bravenewtraveler, almostfearless, nomadicmatt, cooltravelguide, etc…Notice your favorite authors and take note of their style and approach to travel writing. Are you drawn more to prose? Quick-hitter blog posts? Also, find inspiration in books on writing, such as those by Anne Lamott and Stephen King. Take a travel-writing course, such as one offered by Matador University.

3. Release your voice. I don’t say “find your voice”, because your unique voice is already within you. It’s a matter of releasing that voice and practicing it to hone your skill as a writer.

4. Write! Begin writing. Give yourself permission to have stream of consciousness thought. Yes, you will probably feel like a drunk, schizophrenic person. That’s ok-persevere and don’t censor just yet. That will come with 2nd, 3rd, and 4th draft edits.

5. Get your focus groove on. Once you get the creative juices flowing on writing, start distilling the material into a particular focus. Think about why someone would find value in this information. Does it provide humor? Insider information? A new way to think about something? “Evergreen Content”? (Widely applicable content that will not lose its luster readily?)

6. Start a blog. Start a blog to instantly begin publishing your work. The media is in your hands! And with advertising and other revenue sources from your blog, you can also make moola. This also gives a way to market yourself and be “out there”. Plus, when submitting for publication to other sources, you’ll have a great portfolio of your writing.

7. Reach out to the community. One of the best things about blogging is the sense of community. Find and subscribe to your favorite bloggers. Comment on their posts.  E-mail them (within good judgement). Sleuth out if the bloggers are interested in being guest bloggers on your site. Go to blogger conferences. Read lots of great blogs on blogging, such as copyblogger and problogger. Check other blogrolls out there for more lists of blogs, such as this one.

8. Research. Research the writing markets you can submit to, both on and off-line. Indentify what type of article the publication is looking for, their submission policies, and editors.  (See next post for specific markets!)

9. Just do it. Submit your material. Step into the ring of fire. As Eleanor Roosevelt once said, “You must do the thing you think you cannot do.”

10. Fill the well. As you begin blogging, writing, and getting published, remember to fill the well. Dream, travel, take vacations from work, and most of all, don’t get discouraged. As Christine Kane says, “Some will. Some won’t. So what? Someone’s waiting.”

 

text: Nancy Harder/photo: Bill Longshaw

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