Archive for the ‘Argentina’ category

8 Random Things to Know about Visiting Buenos Aires

January 26th, 2010

Painted Lady in La Boca-Alaskan Dude

Painted Lady in La Boca-Alaskan Dude

Most of the talked-up attractions of Buenos Aires are true. The soccer, tango, meat: all there in large proportions. Although I could list many things about Buenos Aires that are surprising and cool, the following are 8 random things to keep in mind if you’re hitting BsAs up:

1. Don’t throw your toilet paper down the toilet. Geez! I threw the toilet paper down the toilet paper every single damn time. I read the signs, made mental notes, promised myself not to screw up Argentina’s plumbing system. Unfortunately, rote habit kept me from heeding the “PLEASE DON’T PUT TOILET PAPER IN TOILET” signs. Sorry Argentina.

2. Locate a couple of ATMS around your hostel/hotel. ATMs in BsAs will frequently run out of cash, possibly leaving you panicked when the hostel bill is due.

3. Save your coins and small bills. Speaking of money, you should, “horde your change as if it were porn in the 1980s and lie to store clerks about having it as if they were your mom,” as Kate Sedgwick writes in her How to Take the Bus in Buenos Aires Like You Know What’s Going On piece.  Buses only accept coins and you’ll get dirty looks throwing down a 100 peso spot for small purchases.

4. Watch your step. Sidewalks are uneven (I assume they’re privately owned?) and decorated with dog poop.

5. Don’t pull a map out on the street. This goes for most major cities around the world. One of our friends got robbed in broad daylight in the city center doing this. Use common sense and look at your map/guidebook in a store or secure area.

6. You don’t have to eat meat all the time. There are parrillas all over the place, but there are some fantastic ethnic and vegetarian restaurants in the city.

7.  Don’t even think about eating before 9pm. 11-3am is the most hopping at the popular restaurants.

8. Call cabs. Don’t hail them off the street. Call Radio Taxi,  Radio Taxi Premium if it’s available.

Keep these tips in mind as you visit and drink some of that luscious Malbec while you’re there.

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Sneak Peak Video: Horseback Riding in Argentina

January 9th, 2010

Woosh-the New Year is here.

I will soon get used to writing the numbers 1-0. Currently, I ‘m catching myself at 2-0-0, right before writing the “9″. I’m getting adept at squeezing a “1″ before a third “O”. Anyone else still adjusting?

We return from our 5 week Argentina trip on Monday, January 11. We’ve hung with the city folk in BsAs, drank copious amounts of Malbec in Mendoza, trekked on glaciers and mountains in Patagonia, and chilled with penguins and sea lions in Ushuaia.

Get ready for Argentina-related stories and pics out the wazoo, now that I’m re-emerging into wifi-friendly spots.

As a taste of what’s to come, here’s a video by Mr. Gnome.

(Forgive the shakiness-Mr. Gnome doesn’t suffer from arthritis, our point-and-shoot sneaks whiskey when we’re not looking.)

Horse-back riding near El Calafate, one of my favorite experiences of the trip:

(For the record-I said my horse’s name was Carasusia. Darn wind from those stunning Patagonia mountains…) We ended up loving horseback riding so much we went back two more times.

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My First Bike and Wine Tour in Mendoza, Argentina

December 18th, 2009

Yesterday marked a momentous occasion. I went on my very first bike and wine tour.

Tasting gorgeous wines. Photo by Mr. Gnome :)

Tasting gorgeous wines. Photo by Mr. Gnome

I also officially graduated with my Masters degree of music in collaborative piano yesterday. Can I get a what what? Instead of donning a nylon robe with my fellow classmates in the ceremony back home, I was sweating out my arm pits and drinking copious amounts of malbec on a 30K bikesandwine tour in Mendoza, Argentina. And I wouldn’t have traded my saddle sore bum for anything.

Despite some advice to go with Mr. Hugo’s bike tour, we ended up going with the popular Bikes and Wine tour out of laziness. Bikesandwine offered transfer to and from the next town, instead of taking the bus or a 100 pesos taxi ride. During the jeep transfer, Mr. Gnome and I ended up making friends with the people we were squished up against and hung with them the rest of the day and night.

By 10:30am a Scottish girl, British girl, Dutch guy, and us two Americanos were off. We came up with a logical (or so we thought) plan to ride to the furthest winery (a good 12k away) first. I idiotically forgot to wear sunscreen. Although I applied at the first winery the damage had been done. My burn is epic, but that’s what I get for not heeding my own advice.

Our plan to work backwards was great in theory, but we encountered problems when one of the wineries didn’t open till the afternoon and lunch was booked for us at the midway point. So, we ended up having to backtrack after lunch. At least we biked off the many glasses of wine and big lunch. My advice? Don’t add lunch to your tour package and work your way forwards through the wineries. There will be plenty of places to stop and eat lunch and you’ll have more flexibility with time and energy if you work forwards.

Did I mention I hadn’t ridden a bike since 2003? Surprisingly, my biking skills improved exponentially the more I drank…

We sampled lots of great malbecs, cabernets, and malbec rosés. The rosés were perfect in the 90+ degree Fahrenheit heat. The trip got considerably more fun and challenging as it went on. You get to know people’s lives stories pretty well after drinking and sweating with them for 14 hours. But the biking got harder as the heat of the sun and weight of the wine made me want to take a siesta in a cool wine cellar.

I was thankful to have a Dutchman biking with us too; at one point the chain came off my bike. The Nederlandser dismounted and reattached the chain for me in one swift motion. I would probably still be sitting in some deserted vineyard plucking grapes for survival without him.

Overall, I had one of my favorite days in Argentina and learned a lot about wine and the wine-making process. Some wineries used French oak casks, some used both French and American, some used a double process to smooth the wine. By the end of the day I felt like Paul Giamatti in the movie Sideways. A great way to celebrate finishing my seeming endless quest for this masters degree.

Some of my performances to celebrate graduating. :)

Schumann A minor concerto (photo: Jamie Moncrief)

Schumann A minor concerto (photo: Jamie Moncrief)

Solo performance (Photo by: Mary Pond Estes)

Solo performance (Photo by: Mary Pond Estes)

Collaborative performance (photo: Jamie Moncrief)

Collaborative performance (photo: Lisa Grkman)

Debussy Pour Le Piano (photo: Jamie Moncrief)

Debussy Pour Le Piano (photo: Jamie Moncrief)

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